January 2003, Score: 88-91
Better mid-palate density and power permit this to better integrate the aggressive new oak. The intense, rustic and complex flavors deliver excellent length and while this is clearly better balanced than the Clos de Vougeot, it still doesn’t quite have the density it should have for a top grand cru. Drink: 2010-2018.
Very spicy with copious vanilla notes and while there is better mid-palate density with good richness and power, it’s not clear that this will ever completely integrate the aggressive new oak. The intense, rustic and complex flavors deliver excellent length and while this too is certainly stylishly oaked, it will never appeal to those who are sensitive to vanilla and higher toast burgundies. Drink: 2008-13
Domaine Drouhin Laroze
This substantial Gevrey Chambertin domaine is under the guardianship of a collaborative family team: Philippe Drouhin is ably assisted by son and daughter Nicolas and Caroline. First established in 1850, the domaine has major holdings in Gevrey Chambertin, as well as an impressive array of the Côte de Nuits’s grands crus, stretching from Gevrey down through Chambolle Musginy and into Vougeot. Recent investment at the domaine’s barrel hall will continue to drive quality at Drouhin Laroze. Their style falls somewhere between a modernist and a traditionalist. The wines are ripe, concentrated, and often earthy and textured. They offer terrific value, particularly in Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru.
Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, Red Burgundy
Gevrey-Chambertin has more Grand Crus than any other appellation in Burgundy. Unusually wines from Clos de Beze may simply call themselves Chambertin, which is an indicator of the quality of these vineyards. One of the most complete of all the Grand Crus, rivalling the revered Romanee-Conti, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze wines are the pinnacle of Pinot Noir – fragrant, powerfully complex and intense.