2017 Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett Dönnhoff

NGN 43,370

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Tasting Notes

Goedhuis,
June 2018

Another flawless example of Kabinett. So delicately weighted, with an intoxicating spicy blend of ginger and orange peel. It quenches and awakens the palate in one deft move. The Leistenberg vines are southeast facing, and bathe in the morning sun, which builds up both complex fruit flavours and keeps the grapes in good health, drying out any night-time moisture. Perfect as an aperitif, at the start of a meal, or in the wee hours to freshen weary palates.

Producer

Helmut Dönnhoff

Quiet and immensely modest, Helmut Dönnhoff is one the best producers in all of Germany and whose estate is arguably the most famous outside of the Mosel valley. His family domaine dates from 1750 and is comprised of 20-hectares in the Nahe, a region located southeast of the Mosel. Its climate unexpectedly evokes the Mediterranean, and its soils are comparable to the Mosel with the addition of clay, though not as steep. The combination of these 2 elements seems to give the best of both worlds – the focus and minerality of the Mosel as well as the fleshy fruit of Germany’s warmer regions. These characters, combined with Helmut’s natural (and perfectionist) winemaking philosophy and Burgundian-like persona, enable his wines to have extraordinary power, concentration and complexity. Indeed, they are penetrating and tasting them is like listening to excerpts of the world’s greatest arias. Now joined by his son Cornelius, the estate continues to flourish. One cannot help but be reminded why German wines used to command the prices of first growth Bordeaux. Spellbinding and thought-provoking, they are worth discovering.

Region

Nahe, Germany & Austria

Nahe is located to the south east of the Mosel. Its climate unexpectedly evokes the Mediterranean, and its slate soils are comparable to the Mosel with the addition of clay, though not as steep. The combination of these two elements seems to give the best of both worlds – the focus and minerality of the Mosel as well as the fleshy fruit of Germany’s warmer regions.

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